Quick one I have a vinyl album that you cant buy on cd and would like to put
it on to cd either mp3 it up or another way

any help out there

I have a deck with leads and a pc with sound card any advise on what else I
need like software and stuff

cheers Dave

Dragon wrote:
Connect the Tape Out from your deck to your sound card, you may need a
RCA to minijack converter. Make sure the record level is enabled in your
sound properties. You can use CDex to record from Line-in. You can use
Audacity to divide the wav file into separate tracks and then use CDex
to encode them to mp3 files. You need to burn the album as separate
tracks when you make an audio CD.
Here is another description with a little more detail
http://www.br0wn.co.uk/vinyltocd.htm

--
Secret

Dragon wrote:
http://www.shareup.com/dadioh/

It may depend on the output of your turntable's cartridge as well. I needed
to add an amp between the turntable and sound card's audio inputs.
Turntables are not normally Line Out, but Phono/Cartridge Out (i.e. a very,
very weak signal). Trying to crank the soundcard up normally results in
distortion. Radio Shack sells an amp to do the "boost" from Phono Out to
Line Out for around $50 or so. It will also allow you to change the output
to the sound card for either a magnetic or ceramic cartridge. It does make
a definite sound difference if you throw the switch between the two (one has
more bass response and weaker).
Software can be about anything, but there is one called LP Record that does
the primary recording.

B~

"Dragon" <davewhitnospam@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in
news:FLarc.870$c26.800@pathologist.blueyonder.net:

You cannot connect a record deck directly to your PC, you will need
either an amplifier with a phono input (connect the tape out to the line-
in of your PC), a mixer or a special phono preamp. An example>
http://tinyurl.com/3dsup
(which is http://www.guitarsuperstore.com/product.asp?IntID=793
&strManufacturer=Phono%20Preamp%20with%20RIAA%20Eq )

--
fred

Fred is right, but you can connect your turntable to your receiver (where it
used to belong) and then connect your sound card to the receiver's Tape Out
connections (or CD, or AUX). There's your amplifier! Without buying one
from Radio Shack that you'll probably never use again!


"fred-bloggs" <fred-bloggs@hahahotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1085124171.3392.0@echo.uk.clara.net...

Dragon wrote:
dadiOH's dandies v3.0...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
____________________________

Try 'Total Recorder' from Highcriteria.com. Only cost's a few $/£ but will
convert your vynyl to mp3 through the line in on your sound card. Easy
peasy.

SR


"Dragon" <davewhitnospam@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:FLarc.870$c26.800@pathologist.blueyonder.net. ..

Hi all!
Typical method:-Phono preamp out for vinyl (or tape out of integrated hifi
amp-enabling any audio source) to basic mixer (for greater audio control) to
line input of sound card.Use software like Soundforge for recording initial
wavs then editing out gaps after.Then convert to mp3 say 192 kbps using
Audiactive Pro mp3 encoder .
Easy ain't it!!
eadg <don'tbe@it.com> wrote in message news:2h74k5F9jilqU1@uni-berlin.de...

The method I used a while ago...............

my old turntable was connected to the ghetto blaster........quality was
fine.................then head phone lead from head phone socket on ghetto
blaster into sound card......

Roxio spin doctor.................press record..............start record
playing..............

voila.............lp to wave or mp3 in a few minutes



and it even took my crackles out too!

Dave




"RSS" <RSS@rushtonsound.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:c8ngk2$9tt$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...

Having read the other replies, just a couple of points ...

1) The phono pre-amps mentioned don't just boost the output from
cartridge to line-in level, but also equalise it (the frequency response and
noise signatures of vinyl playback are not flat and linear respectively,
hence recordings are pressed with an RIAA standard frequency bias which the
pre-amps correct). Hence, any recordings made directly from the deck without
a phono pre-amp will need to be corrected somehow, probably afterwards
digitally by your software, so, if not using a pre-amp, check that it can do
this.

2) Software claiming to remove vinyl scratches is at best often
over-hyped and at worst, especially in the hands of the unskilled, more
unpleasant in result than the original scratches. In particular, if you set
such software to find or mark 'scratches' it will often erroneously find
normal peaks in the music, the implication being that if you set the
software to remove 'scratches' automatically it will inevitably to some
extent corrupt the original music by treating such peaks as though they are
scratches. At the other extreme, if you choose software that will allow you
to remove scratches by hand you could remove every tiny little one manually
and so get the best result that it is possible to get, but you might be on
your deathbed by the time you finish the LP! So my advice would be to
compromise: at least do the major scratches by hand, the ones that are
individually audible when listening to the album, and only run the automatic
removal tools after you've done as much manually as you feel able. This
enables the automatic tools to be run at a level correspondingly reduced in
severity with correspondingly more faithful results. This should enable you
to remove all the audible scratches, to reduce the vinyl 'wear' noise to an
acceptable level, and if necessary to remove 'rumble', all without tearing
the guts out of the sound.

PS: FWIW I use DCart 5 to remove scratches manually and rumble
automatically, and Sound Forge's Click and Crackle removal for auto removal
of vinyl 'wear', but they're both quite expensive.

PPS: If the last time this topic came up is anything to go by, I now expect
a chorus of replies saying that such'n'such a piece of scratch removal
software can safely be run automatically and produces marvellous results,
etc; but at the time I'd already tried most of those suggestions and found
them wanting. In reply I gave a procedure in Sound Forge to illustrate the
erroneous finding of normal peaks as so-called 'scratches', and no-one
argued after that, though how many actually tried and were convinced and how
many didn't through not being arsed or not having equivalent functionality
in their software, I don't know ... Anyway, I'm sticking to my guns, because
I have encountered various vinyl rips done by others, and the worst were
truly terrible while even the best still had some audible scratches that
could have been completely removed following the technique I've outlined
above.

"Dragon" <davewhitnospam@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:FLarc.870$c26.800@pathologist.blueyonder.net. ..

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"Java Jive" <java@evij.com> wrote in
news:40afd2e4$0$6334$65c69314@mercury.nildram.net:

Are you implying that it is *OK* to plug the deck directly into the
souncard? While, theoretically, it may be possible to apply the RIAA
equalisation to the signal digitally, the original sampling of a signal
at that level (5 mV) into a 2V, full scale, AtoD converter would be 8
bit!

<snipped>

I absolutely agree, I use NO signal processing on my vinyl rips (my
records are mostly fairly new and in good conditon) and remove clicks
manually with Soundforge's interpolate function or by drawing the
waveform.



--
fred

Agree with you that need RIAA equalisation. Try the following (assuming that
you don't have a phon pre amp. http://www.xpsound.com/

Rick


"Java Jive" <java@evij.com> wrote in message
news:40afd2e4$0$6334$65c69314@mercury.nildram.net. ..

"fred-bloggs" <fred-bloggs@hahahotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1085285267.29569.0@dyke.uk.clara.net...

It depends on what inputs are available on the soundcard, but most, maybe
all, cards are not going to have one sufficiently sensitive, in which case
your analysis is correct. I was more thinking of a scenario where someone
found some non-phono specific (pre)amp which was sufficiently sensitive to
use, and pointing out that in this case one would still need to apply the
RIAA bias correction somehow.

Thanks for the support :-)

I envy you. Unfortunately I spent some years in a damp dwelling and most of
my vinyls sound terrible, so I only do those not available on CD and nearly
always have to use some digital processing over and above the scratch
interpolation.



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