On Sep 5, 1:01 pm, /Tx2 <noreplies.use...@googlemail.com> wrote:
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Let's separate issues here.
1) you should always be able to watch any video in the proper aspect
ratio. So if it was 4:3, your 16:9 TV should show with bars on the
side and you watch 4:3. If not, then the stretch is in either of two
places. The DVD player, or the TV. Check settings. Often they will
have something like fill screen or ?? each brand can use their own
words. That issue should be done.
2) Interlace for TV, de-interlace for computer monitor. We won't go
into the exceptions. Whichever will be the primary watching medium,
work with that. General rule, leave interlacing alone. Sounds like
you are producing for people to watch primarily on a TV. A HD TV will
have its own software, or the DVD player, especially those that
upgrade SD DVD to Near HD. Proof - if a non slo-mo clip looks fine,
you know interlacing isn't the issue, the slo mo method is. Plug
camcorder directly into TV (if you're working with camcorder clips)
and see quality.
3) When you slo-mo, many programs just add more copies of frames. I
don't work with Premiere, so I can't be sure of that, but that's where
your flickering is probably from. If you want it at 25% speed, it
will copy each frame 3 times so it shows 4X, then jumps to the next
frame. Obviously with motion, this isn't a good solution. If you're
trying for even slower, you'll really see a flicker effect. Poor
man's slo-mo, so to speak. And interlaced can add to the issue.
There are programs that will interpolate between frames for slow
motion. That's what you want. Forget the anti-flicker filter.
Different issue. Hopefully someone more informed that me will pipe in
and give you specific programs to use. I know they exist, but never
had reason to use them. I slo-mo once in a while with my Ulead
programs and with 50% speed there's only 2 of the same frames and
jumping or flicker isn't a real issue, and I've only done that a
couple times. You might Google for a slo-mo program. Try different
terms, like playback speed, etc.
4) Quality issue. Some editing programs render each frame, even if it
isn't changed. Even digital can degrade, especially mpg files.
Camcorder, general rule, capture as DV, which will produce an avi
file. Edit and work in avi until absolutely completely finished
editing, then render to mpg for DVD burning. Check with your burning
software. avi is not very lossy, and quality is maintained. mpg is
lossy and quality is lost between renders. (again, general rule)
Check to see, lots of potential pitfalls. Such as, you render with
editing software to mpg, then your burning software renders the mpg
file again, creating quality loss. If your burning software will work
with avi, do that instead of editing software creating mpg. If not,
make sure your burning software settings EXACTLY match your editing
render, as in 4:3 aspect ratio (check that first, maybe it's not the
TV or DVD player), upper or lower field first, compression details,
such as 5,000 or 7,000 bitrate, and even audio settings. Some
software has a checkbox to just use as rendered originally if mpg,
some call it SmartRender, other software has different terms. Don't
just take defaults at every step. Make a checklist so once you find
the sweet spot for quality, you can duplicate that every time. Your
computer monitor should show you where quality is lost. Capture,
compared to editing, compared to edit render, compared to DVD
creation, then play DVD on TV and see. There should be some loss
between avi and render for DVD, but not that much. I shoot everything
with HD cameras and the DVD's look very good, and played back on my HD-
DVD player onto HDTV, from over 10 ft back, it looks very near HD
quality even though the DVD is SD (standard definition). Now I'm
burning HD-DVD and comparing, and up close there's a real difference.
Hopefully I'm right and have explained it so you understand a bit
better. I'm learning a lot myself at this point.
Jim McGauhey
Washington State
