"Allodoxaphobia" <bit-bucket@config.com> wrote in message
news:slrnfafjmn.2l1g.bit-bucket@shell.config.com...
That's what you get when at least the ARRL seems to be primarily interested in
keeping the number of amateurs high even as society in general seems to be
less and less willing to work a little for a bit of knowledge.

Significant power is still hard enough to come by at 2.4GHz that most of them
will probably run out of interest or money before doing *too* much damage. :-)
That being said, it's not like you need that much power to go impressive
distances anyway; see: http://www.wifiworldrecord.com/ .

---Joel

Dave Martindale wrote:

http://www.usenet-replayer.com/group...lectronic.html

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

"Jerry Martes" <j.jmartes@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:lePpi.8517$Ub7.1313@trnddc04...
Hi Jerry,
I posted the drawing on another newsgroup called
is good I'll
email the drawing.
I looked at the site and it discouraged me. One site says 34mm diameter
tube another
42mm, one says a 71mm impedance match strip then another says it's longer. I
have no
way to measure the antenna when finished so I'd like to at least start with
the right
dimensions. I will say at least the site you gave does have some equipment
and his
measurements and reasoning make sense.
What is a bridge? I plan on putting a Usb wifi adapter at the antenna.
I hope to remove the smt antenna on the USB wifi card and attach the helical
antenna.
Thanks, Mike

"Chuck Olson" <chuckolson01@REMOVETHIScomcast.net> wrote in message
news:M8OdnVWDR5DJMTrbnZ2dnUVZ_r-vnZ2d@comcast.com...
That BiQuad seems very simple and 14dbi seems like a lot for a simple
small antenna.
As for all the other fun stuff, not now, all I want now is internet access.
But I need some gain.
I'm still waiting for my USB wifi adapter card to arrive. I hope to have an
antenna ready to
connect to the USB wifi adapter card.
Mike

amdx wrote:

If you wish to use a router/switch/adapter with a fixed antenna, this
page may be helpful:

http://www.freeantennas.com/projects/template/

Regards,
JS

Hi Mike

I am too much 'a beginner' to be a good advisor for how to hook up devices
for WiFi reception. So, I wont try to define what a Bridge is. I will do
about anything (affordable) that allows the elimination of the coax in a 2.4
GHz system.
I do have some experience with making WiFi systems to extend the distance
at which Internet connections can be achieved. On one system I made for a
guy in Ranchita Calif, who has an agricultural business about 1/4 mile from
his house. I put an access point on a 4 foot diameter dish so he uses only
CAT 5 cable from his home Router to illuminate the dish. I then put a
Bridge on a smaller dish with CAT 5 cable to connect that dish to his lap
top in the field. It worked. My objective was to be able to use highly
directive antennas yet minimize coax line losses.
I think the use of a USB wireless adapter (TRENDnet TEW-445UB) Would be
easier than the way I made my system. Show Me cables sells reversing
polarity adapters that make it possible to use normal SMA connectors to the
TRENDnet USB TEW-445UB

Your project interests me. Tell me what you finally decide to do.
I have rejected the Helix. They are more difficult for me to understand
than a Yagi. The Helix is circularly polarized, so you loose 3 dB "off the
top" of any gain (directivity) plots. The Yagi is fairly easy to model with
EZNEC, so you can be fairly well assured that whatever you build will work
like the model.

Jerry

"Jerry Martes" <j.jmartes@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:aqSpi.3837$7w.79@trnddc05...
usb wifi adapter, but I guess not. Have you looked at my drawing I sent
you?
Mike

In article <a590$46a7f995$18d6b40c$29490@KNOLOGY.NET>,
amdx <amdx@knology.net> wrote:

Mike,

If I may chime in here...

In somewhat-simplified Ethernet-networking terms, a "bridge" is a
device which joins two Ethernet segments together, by forwarding
Ethernet packets from one network to the other based on the Ethernet
MAC address of the system to which the packet is being sent. It makes
the decision to forward (or not) without changing (or even acting
upon) their contents at any higher protocol level (e.g. IP address).
An Ethernet switch is a form of bridge. In most respects, a bridge is
"invisible" to the systems whose packets it is forwarding - they don't
even know it's there.

This is distinguished from a router, which makes the forwarding
decision based on a higher-level protocol (e.g. IP address), and which
is "known" directly to the systems that are using it.

An 802.11 access point tends to behave like a bridge, from the point
of view of those devices which are connected to its wired-Ethernet
ports. The devices whose packets are being bridged (via radio) out
through the access point don't realize that this is occurring.

In most 802.11 applications, the wireless client systems *do* know
that they're talking to an access point - they do all of the 802.11
protocol stuff (e.g. access-point scanning, requesting association,
the client side of key negotiation, etc.) themselves, in the device
adapter or firmware or driver. The USB or PCI 802.11 interfaces in
these devices are *not* bridges.

However, it's possible to build a device which looks outwardly like an
802.11 access point, in that it has a radio and antenna(s) and an
Ethernet port, but which implements the _client_ side of 802.11 rather
than the access-point side. You can then connect this to a PC (via
wired Ethernet), and *it* will establish an 802.11 connection with an
existing access point, and then start bridging packets from the wired
Ethernet to the access point. The PC plays no direct part in the
wireless connection setup - it simply transmits packets to what it
"thinks" is a hub or switch, and the "wireless bridge" sends them to
the access point.

You'll sometimes see these devices referred to as a form of "gaming
adapter", because they often have higher performance than typical USB
or PCI 802.11 adapters and don't burden the host CPU as much... and
are thus popular with players of high-performance PC videogames.

Many of the newer all-in-one "802.11 access point, router,
firewall, and wired-Ethernet switch" products can be configured in
this way via software... they'll take the client role in an 802.11
network just as happily as the role of an access point. Most of them
cannot do both things at once - they can serve as an outbound bridge,
or as an access point for a local WLAN, but not both.

So, I think you have at least three basic alternatives for how you can
set up the remote/client end of a longer-distance wireless link:

- Run a big, heavy low-loss coaxial cable from your PC's 802.11
adapter antenna jack, up to your antenna (dish or biquad or helical
or waveguide-can). For really low loss over long distances, plan
on using something like 2" heliax (which is to say, you really
don't want to do this!)

- Run a USB cable (extended as necessary with 15' "active" USB
repeater cables) up to the antenna, and connect a USB/802.11
adapter there (e.g. stick the adapter at the focal point of a dish,
or at the feedpoint in a waveguide can). Google for "Wok-fi".

- Run a CAT-5 Ethernet cable and DC power up to the dish, install an
802.11 bridge right at the antenna, and connect the Ethernet cable
to your PC's wired-Ethernet port.

It's worth noting that most methods of attaching an external antenna
to a commercial 802.11 adapter are likely to void the adapter's Part
15 certification, and make the adapter techically illegal to use for
transmission. 802.11 radios and their associated antennas are
required to be tested and certificated as a complete system.

I've rarely heard of anyone being hassled by the FCC for doing this,
though.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

On Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:13:26 -0500, "amdx" <amdx@knology.net> wrote:

Why not to use an older 802.11g
Usb Wlan stick (good one w/ onboard chip smd ceramic antenna, much
better than w/ Pcb printed one) & some "metal" DIY "range enhancers"
? :-)

See pics & data & measures in cm
to get some clues & ideas
(text is in my native-slovene, so you won´t understand it;
sorry, still had no time to make an english version of that articles
for those UsbKey active antennas; inside URLs can be also seen at
wish...)

DIY wifi USBkeY range Enhancers-boosters ´4 Dummies´ :-)
http://www.wlan-sat.com/modules.php?...=26476#264 76

Ultimate wifi antenna TinCan Enhancers - part-2 ... :-)
http://www.wlan-sat.com/modules.php?...ewtopic&t=4782

problems with Usb cable lenght limitation? No more even w/o powered
hubs ... :-) (DIY, custom up to 21m, all data in english there on
schematics!))

http://www.wlan-sat.com/modules.php?...ewtopic&t=4216

Have fun! :-)


There is also to check other stuff at wish:

Default Wlan Pci Card antenna_on_cable Enhancer 6dBi
http://www.wlan-sat.com/modules.php?...ewtopic&t=3847

Cornet enhancers for some different type antennas up to 12dBi
http://www.wlan-sat.com/modules.php?...ewtopic&t=4241

& also parabolic pot or wok cover (+ bucket shape add-on) "passive"
antenna experiment with at least 20dBi gain:
STâ„¢-maxX antena (= project-X) 21dbi
http://www.wlan-sat.com/modules.php?...ewtopic&t=3993

well, I think that now you´ve got enough material (pics &
drawings/sketches) to check & maybe try some stuff by yourself :-))
--
Regards , SPAJKY ®
mail addr. @ my site @ http://www.spajky.vze.com
5y - "Tualatin OC-ed / BX-Slot1 / inaudible setup!"

"> Well.. not all the 802.11b/g channels are in the amateur band, and even
That is what the moonbounce operators do, but with more antenna gain!!

Again moonbounce is not uncommon in the 13cms band.

Jeff

"Allodoxaphobia" <bit-bucket@config.com> wrote in message
news:slrnfaf3rq.2f55.bit-bucket@shell.config.com...
Channels 1 to 6 lie with the 13cms amateur band, which does vary a little
from country to country nut in the UK is 2310-2450MHz, and there is no ERP
restriction in this band just a max power to the antenna, which can have as
much gain as you can muster.

Jeff

On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 09:15:44 +0100, Jeff wrote:
For amateur radio, it's a limit on DC power to the final amplifier, which
you can make as efficient as you want; it's average power, so you can
run 2 KW PEP (peak envelope power) SSB, and gawd knows what kinds of
pulses you're allowed to transmit on the UHF, SHF, and EHF bands, as long
as the average isn't over 1 KW input to the final.

I'm sure it's all covered in the FCC regs, which should be easy to look up
for anyone who's really that interested. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 09:13:02 +0100, Jeff wrote:
Yikes! I was just doing a little calculating, and you could put a 20 dB
Yagi in your shirt pocket! =:-O

;-)
Rich
(OK, my shirts have big pockets... ;-) )

In article <pan.2007.07.27.00.18.06.821088@example.net>,
Rich Grise <rich@example.net> wrote:

I thought that the FCC had abandoned the "DC input power to the final"
standard quite some time ago (a decade or more, I think).

Most of the transmitter power standards for hams are in in 97.313,
which describes all of the limits in terms of PEP. Duty cycle,
modulation, and final efficiency are apparently no longer relevant in
most cases.

For most bands, and most operator classes, "legal limit" is 1500 watts
PEP. There are plenty of exceptions based on band, operator class,
and modulation (spread spectrum in particular) but these limits are
almost always defined in terms of PEP, which is referenced at the
transmitter->feedline connection.

There are some time-averaged and/or ERP limits described elsewhere in
Part 97, but these all seem to have to do with deciding when a
particular station must go through an evaluation for just how much RF
it's exposing humans in the area to.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

Barry Watzman <WatzmanNOSPAM@neo.rr.com> wrote in news:46a7981e$0$30632
$4c368faf@roadrunner.com:

And when you do get that license, you are, by lay, limited on what you can
communicate.

IMO. boosting your home wi-fi unser the auspices of an Amateur Radio
License is a no-no.

"amdx" <amdx@knology.net> wrote in
news:a590$46a7f995$18d6b40c$29490@KNOLOGY.NET:

In a nutshell, a bringe in the wi-fi sense as you should get, is a box that
has an ethernet adapter and a wi-fi adapter. It is kinda like a WAP, but
backwards. It allows you to use an ethernet device like your computer, on a
wireless network using its ethernet connection. You would want to use that
as you can locate the bridge at the antenna, and connect your computer to
the bridge with as long as an ethernet cable (up to 330 ft though) as you
need. USB would be quite limited.

"Gary Tait" <classicsat@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9979DC61A6B6Bwonkynillmailnil@142.77.1.194 ...
Well, the main one is (paraphrased) that you can't be using the amateur bands
for making money on a regular basis... although on-the-air swap meets,
ordering pizza at Pizza Hut via the Internet, books through Amazon, etc. is
certainly all kosher. Were there other exceptions you were thinking of?

As long as you don't use encryption and aren't running your business through
it, in my opinion it's a perfectly reasaonble use. Heck, even QST has
articles on doing so.

Rich Grise wrote:
So in the UK, they still regulate on the basis of DC power?
Interesting. I've always liked that philosophy because it promotes
design of efficient amplifiers.


1.5 kW PEP, except in certain bands with lower limits (5 MHz, 430-450
MHz (depending on what your location is), etc.)

no averaging for pulses.. 97.3(b)(6)
PEP (peak envelope power). The average power supplied to the antenna
transmission line by a transmitter during one RF cycle at the crest of
the modulation envelope taken under normal operating conditions.

You can transmit pulses on 900 MHz and 2300 MHz and all higher bands,
but not 1.2 GHz (although you might be able to do pulses as part of a
data or spread spectrum modulation).

Clearly, if you want to operate a radar with your amateur license,
you're better off with one using pulse compression and long pulses.

Joel Kolstad wrote:
Indeed? Which issue? I recall some articles about HSMM and building a
slotted array with gain, but not wholesale use for extension of your
internet connection.


I think that if you start to stray too far from incidental commercial
use, you could get into trouble, especially if lots folks start doing
it. The classic pizza over the autopatch is the example, and I suppose
the occasional ordering from Amazon fits in the same category. But, if
were to, for instance, check your work email, or watch pay-per-view
content, you might be pushing it. In particular, if you but a PA on
your access point and a directional antenna, so that your neighbor can
use it too, you're likely to be stepping over the line.

It's all a judgement call, but the intent is that amateur radio not be
used where there is a commercial service that can provide the same
functions. This is so the commercial entities can't claim that someone
using amateur frequencies is getting an unfair competitive advantage
(among other reasons)

Not for many years.

The normal UK limit, for a full licence, is 400W pep into the antenna on
most bands.

Jeff