Hi.
I'm quite new to this, but I have been around the block with computers in
general.
For some time I've been taking photographs using std 35mm colour film.
I read somewhere on the net about scanning negatives using a regular
scanner.
At present I have the following scanners available:
Trust Easy Connect 9600 Plus.
Agfa SnapScan 1212p.
I have the original software for both scanners.
Tried putting a negative on the glass(1212p), and scanned the thing with
600dpi.
I could bearly make out one shade in all the darkness.
If anyone sould point me in a direction and/or give me advice
on what scanner to purchase. I don't want to spend a lot on this scanner
so a budget option would be good.

BTW: I'm located in Norway.

Best regards
Geir O. Andersen

A dedicated film scanner will give you better results than a flatbed. Since
you already have a flatbed and are on a budget, I would suggest you look at
the Minolta Dual Scan III. If you can afford a bit more, you can start to
consider some of the least expensive Nikon, Canon and Minolta scanners (some
have rebates now that make them quite reasonable).

Doug
--
Doug's "MF Film Holder" for batch scanning "strips" of 120/220 medium format
film:
http://home.earthlink.net/~dougfishe...lderintro.html

In article <bq0776$421$1@troll.powertech.no>, diskfly@nospam.online.no
says...

You must illuminate the slide from above, so that the light shines through
it into the CCD, but there is quite a lot more to it.

See http://www.afn.org/%7Eafn11300/slides.html

However this is a serious kludge.

Scanners do provide an internal power supply for the florescent lamp they
provide, which operates at a higher frequency than the 50 or 60 Hz from
the house wiring, to prevent visible stripes.

A real film scanner is always best, but there are many flatbed scanners
that provide such a lamp in the lid, called a TMA (transparent media
adapter). There is a lot of software involved too. For example, in
film mode, the flatbed scanner software should turn off the lower
reflective lamp, and should calibrate the CCD from the upper lamp actually
used. As a kludge effort, if you manage to get the lower lamp disabled,
then the calibration it currently expects to complete will fail, and the
scanner should stop and refuse to go.

If you have much film to scan, or expect serious results, then you need
proper equipment.

--
Wayne
http://www.scantips.com "A few scanning tips"

Thanks for the quick reply.
I looked at a webshop here in Norway, and found this:
Canon CanoScan 3000F USB2.0 Scanner
48 bit, 1200x2400 dpi, w/ film adapter
The price for this is something like $100 USD.
I'll probably buy this in the very near future.

-Geir

I wouldn't invest in that for 35mm use. It is only 1200 dpi. I have a
supposedly 3200 dpi flatbed and it is marginal at best with 35mm.

Just my .02,
Doug
--
Doug's "MF Film Holder" for batch scanning "strips" of 120/220 medium format
film:
http://home.earthlink.net/~dougfishe...lderintro.html

"Geir O. Andersen" <diskfly@nospam.online.no> wrote in message
news:bq0c2u$5p0$1@troll.powertech.no...
Thanks for the quick reply.
I looked at a webshop here in Norway, and found this:
Canon CanoScan 3000F USB2.0 Scanner
48 bit, 1200x2400 dpi, w/ film adapter
The price for this is something like $100 USD.
I'll probably buy this in the very near future.

-Geir

"Geir O. Andersen" <diskfly@nospam.online.no> wrote in message
news:bq0c2u$5p0$1@troll.powertech.no...
Thanks for the quick reply.
I looked at a webshop here in Norway, and found this:
Canon CanoScan 3000F USB2.0 Scanner
48 bit, 1200x2400 dpi, w/ film adapter
The price for this is something like $100 USD.
I'll probably buy this in the very near future.

-Geir

Just been replaced by Canon 3200F which I got 1 of a couple of weeks ago.
The neg/transparency scanning adapter is OK for general/non-critical use but
if you are serious &/or have 100's/1000's to scan then get a dedicated film
scanner.